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April 2019


I was at the spa at Monteverdi Tuscany, a luxury property embedded in a medieval hilltop town in Val d’Orcia, Tuscany, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. I had the sensation of floating above the rolling hills at the spa’s hydrotherapy pool, which is modeled after Roman-style baths. With bare walls on both sides of me, I would have thought I was in an underground basement had it not been for the large window at the end of the pool, framing a tree-topped slope. During the hour before my treatment, I had scrubbed myself at the hammam and braved the spa’s chilled sensory shower and freezing cold plunge pool. But when it was time for my massage, my masseuse found me where I chose to settle: rapt and warm by the pool window. With the spa to myself, there was no reason to share my front-row view of the sun blanketing the landscape in glowing shades of red and orange.